The Truth About Double Cleansing: Is This K-Beauty Trend Worth Your Time?
Your complete guide to the face-washing technique that could transform your skincare routine
Let's talk about getting your skin actually clean.
Not just surface clean, but that deeply satisfying clean that lets your active ingredients do their job properly.
While retinoids (specifically adapalene) were the real game-changer for my acne-prone skin, double cleansing plays a crucial supporting role - especially on makeup days when I want my skin to properly rejuvenate overnight.
You've probably seen double cleansing all over social media, especially if you follow any K-beauty content creators.
While it gained mainstream popularity through Korean beauty rituals, this method has actually been around for centuries in East Asian skincare traditions.
The concept is refreshingly simple: one oil-based cleanser followed by one water-based cleanser.
The chemistry behind it makes perfect sense once you understand how different types of cleansing agents interact with makeup, sunscreen, and your skin's natural oils.
What is Double Cleansing?
Double cleansing involves using two different types of cleansers in sequence - first an oil-based cleanser, then a water-based one.
The science here is straightforward: oil-based cleansers contain emulsifiers that grab onto oil-soluble impurities like makeup, sunscreen filters, and excess sebum.
When you add water, these emulsifiers help transform the oil into a milky substance that rinses away cleanly.
Your second cleanser then handles any remaining water-soluble debris.
Think of it like this - when I'm wearing a full face of makeup, a regular cleanser alone often leaves behind a film I can feel when I run my fingers across my skin.
That's because many modern makeup and sunscreen formulations are specifically designed to resist breaking down - great for lasting power, not so great for removal.
On days when I wear makeup or notice my skin texture getting bumpy, I start with something like the Versed Dissolve Cleansing Balm, Tatcha's cleansing oil, or Elemis' cleansing balm (though I could do without its fragrance).
Each of these first-step cleansers has specific emulsifiers designed to break down stubborn products while being gentle enough not to disrupt your skin barrier.
The Ordinary Is Changing the Skincare Game
Hold on - I've been using The Ordinary's products for years, and their latest move is so exciting that I had to take a break from yapping about double cleansing to talk about it.
They just launched a Growth Factor serum for $15.50 (compared to other brands charging $150 for similar products), but that's just the beginning.
Their new website, thetruthshouldbeordinary.com, is doing something unprecedented.
The Ordinary is making scientific skincare research completely free and accessible.
You won’t find paywalls or expensive subscriptions.
Instead, you can expect unfiltered science and skincare knowledge that used to be locked away.
As someone who's written reviews about their products (especially the Barrier Soothing Serum) and watched this brand evolve, this feels like a heartfelt step in the right direction.
They're challenging how we think about access to skincare and beauty knowledge and making complex research available to everyone.
This is a commitment to making science inclusive and transparent.
And that's something I can totally get behind.
Benefits of Double Cleansing
So, let's break down the science of why double cleansing works.
Most modern sunscreens use filters like avobenzone or zinc oxide, which are specifically engineered to stay put on your skin.
Makeup often contains film-formers and waterproof polymers that basically laugh in the face of regular cleansers.
This is where oil cleansers come in - their emulsifiers can actually break down these stubborn ingredients without you having to scrub your face raw.
When you follow up with a water-based cleanser (I rotate between a benzoyl peroxide cleanser after workouts and a gentle microbiome-friendly one on rest days), you're removing any remaining emulsified oils along with water-soluble debris and sweat.
It's not about stripping your skin - it's about smart chemistry.
The real benefits I've noticed:
My tretinoin seems to absorb better on nights when I double cleanse
No more random bumpy texture from partially removed sunscreen
Makeup removal that doesn't require harshly rubbing my skin
Fewer "is this a breakout or just congestion?" moments
Here's what's happening on a molecular level: Those emulsifiers in your first cleanse (like polysorbates or PEG compounds) have a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail.
They surround oil-based impurities and, when mixed with water, form tiny spheres called micelles that rinse away cleanly.
Your second cleanse then uses different surfactants to handle any remaining water-soluble impurities.
Who Should Double Cleanse?
The reality is, not everyone needs to double cleanse daily.
As someone with dry, acne-prone skin, I only do it on days when I wear makeup or sunscreen, or when my skin starts feeling congested.
The key is understanding your skin's needs rather than following arbitrary rules.
Double cleansing makes particular sense if:
You regularly wear long-wearing makeup or water-resistant sunscreen
You live in a city where pollution particles can stick to skincare products on your face
Your skin feels congested despite regular cleansing
You use occlusive products during the day that need thorough removal
Skip it when:
You've only worn light or no skincare/makeup that day
Your skin is feeling particularly sensitive
You're dealing with a compromised skin barrier
You're too tired to do a thorough job (a proper single cleanse beats a rushed double cleanse in my opinion)
A quick note about skin types: If you're oily or acne-prone, you might be tempted to double cleanse twice daily. Please don't unless you’re absolutely sure it works for you.
Over-cleansing can trigger more oil production as your skin tries to compensate.
Trust me, I learned this the hard way before finding the right balance with tretinoin and strategic double cleansing.
Side Note: I’ve been using the Makeup Forever HD Skin Hydra Glow foundation for a few months now, and I love it.
It’s lightweight, hydrating, and gives my skin a naturally luminous finish.
I raved about it in my My 10 Holy Grail Beauty Products of 2024.
Step-by-Step Guide
Here's my exact routine (developed through plenty of trial and error):
First Cleanse:
Start with wet skin - this helps the oil-based cleanser spread more easily
Take about a nickel-sized amount of cleansing balm or 1-2 pumps of cleansing oil
Gently massage in circles around your face for 30-60 seconds, focusing on areas with makeup
Pay special attention to areas where makeup and sunscreen tend to build up (around the nose, jawline)
Add more water and continue massaging until the product turns “milky”
Rinse thoroughly until your skin feels clean but not stripped
Second Cleanse:
Post-workout days: I use a benzoyl peroxide cleanser to prevent breakouts Rest days: I opt for something gentle like the BeautyStat Universal Microbiome cleanser
Use about a dime-sized amount of cleanser
Massage gently for another 30-60 seconds
Rinse with lukewarm water (hot water can irritate dry, acne-prone skin)
From here, I go straight into treatment products while my skin is still slightly damp - tretinoin, followed by either Medik8’s Liquid Peptides or Mirror Skin Copper Elixir, then seal it all in with Mirror Skin Polypeptide Dream Cream.
The whole process takes about 3 minutes total.
Any longer and you're probably being too aggressive with the massage.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
After going through my fair share of trial and error, here are the biggest mistakes I see (and have made myself):
1. Using too much pressure
Your face isn't a frying pan that needs scrubbing.
Gentle circular motions are all you need - let the emulsifiers in the cleanser do the work.
The goal is to dissolve makeup and sunscreen, not force them off your face.
2. Wrong water temperature
That steamy hot water might feel nice, but it's doing your dry skin no favors.
Lukewarm water helps the oil-based cleanser emulsify properly without stripping your natural oils or irritating acne-prone skin.
3. Skipping the initial water
This was my biggest rookie mistake.
A slightly damp face helps the oil cleanser glide and emulsify better.
On dry skin, you'll just be dragging the product around unnecessarily.
4. Racing through it
Those 30-60 seconds per cleanse matter.
The surfactants and emulsifiers need time to break down stubborn ingredients like sunscreen filters and waterproof makeup.
But anything beyond a minute is just you wasting time in front of the mirror.
5. Using the wrong first cleanser
Some oil cleansers leave a residue that requires harsh second cleansing to remove.
That defeats the whole purpose.
You want something that emulsifies easily and rinses clean - this is why I stick to my tried and true options (Versed & Tatcha)
The Bottom Line
Double cleansing might seem like an extra step, but for me, it’s made a huge difference—especially on makeup days.
It makes my skin feel completely clean, preps it for actives like tretinoin, and helps keep breakouts from creeping in.
That said, I don’t do it every night.
Over-cleansing can backfire, so I stick to it when my skin actually needs it.
And of course, I can’t talk about skincare without mentioning some of my favorite makeup products.
Makeup Forever HD Skin Hydra Glow Foundation gives me that natural, luminous finish, while Makeup By Mario Soft Pop Blush Stick in Pomegranate layers beautifully for the perfect flushed look.
And when I want a sharp, long-lasting wing, KVD Tattoo Liner never lets me down.
Paired with a solid cleansing routine, these staples help me get that fresh, polished look every time.
Cheers,