Retinol vs. Adapalene vs. Tretinoin: Which One Is Right for You?
Retinol, retinaldehyde, adapalene, and tretinoin are all great skincare treatments, but they work best for different problems.
For example, adapalene is a prescription-strength retinoid with FDA approval for treating acne that you can get over the counter.
On the other hand, retinol is the gold standard in anti-aging and has decades of research backing up its abilities to reduce signs of aging and dark spots.
The right retinoid for you depends on your most pressing skincare concern, whether that be acne or aging.
In this article, I'll explain the differences and help you decide which one is right for you.
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What are retinoids?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives commonly used in dermatology and skincare to treat a variety of skin conditions.
The most common types of topical retinoids include:
Retinol
Retinaldehyde
Adapalene (often used interchangeably with Differin gel)
Prescription retinoids like tretinoin or tazarotene
All of the four compounds listed above fall under the umbrella term "retinoid".
These retinoids are commonly used and prescribed for treating acne and signs of aging.
For people with severe cystic acne, dermatologists may prescribe isotretinoin (also known as Accutane) which is an oral form of vitamin A.
What is adapalene gel?
Adapalene gel is a third-generation synthetic retinoid that is commonly used to treat acne. It has FDA approval for the treatment of acne vulgaris, commonly known as mild to severe acne.
It is a prescription-strength topical retinoid that speeds up the turnover of skin cells which, in turn, reduces acne and prevents new breakouts from forming.
Adapalene gel is an affordable acne treatment, but it is commonly used as a second line of treatment after other over-the-counter options like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.
Among retinoids, adapalene gel is generally considered to be less effective against acne than tretinoin or tazarotene but more easily tolerated with fewer side effects.
How does adapalene work?
Adapalene works by binding to specific retinoic acid receptors in your body and modifying the way your body produces skin cells.
Through this process, adapalene has mild exfoliating properties and even shows some anti-inflammatory properties, which are both effective at treating acne.
What’s the best adapalene gel?
They’re all pretty similar - I suggest either La Roche Posay Effaclar Treatment or Differin Adapalene Gel.
To learn more, read my article about the differences between Differin and La Roche Posay Adapalene.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is available over the counter and commonly used to treat signs of aging.
It is generally considered to be the gold standard in skincare for treating premature aging.
You'll commonly find it included in serums and moisturizers to fight fine lines, wrinkles, and even hyperpigmentation.
If this is all getting confusing, don’t worry! I offer 1:1 consultations here:
How does retinol work?
When applied to skin, retinol undergoes one conversion step to become retinaldehyde, then another conversion to become retinoic acid.
Then, when the retinoic acid binds to your retinoic acid receptors, this triggers your body to:
speed up skin cell turnover
boost collagen production
and regulate sebum production
All of these processes help even out your skin tone and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Retinol vs. Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde serums are gaining popularity as there is some evidence that they provide similar, if not better, results compared to retinol serums (although the latter is anecdotal, in my opinion).
FaceTheory Hyaluret S13 is one of my favorite retinol serums, but if you prefer a creamier, lotion-y texture, go for CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum.
If you want to try out retinaldehyde, I like Naturium Cream Retinaldehyde Serum 0.05% or Medik8 Crystal Retinal.
What is tretinoin?
Also known as retin-A, tretinoin is the form of vitamin A that your skin actually uses: retinoic acid.
It’s stronger than retinol, retinaldheyde, and adapalene.
With continued usage, tretinoin can help fight acne, reduce wrinkle depth, and fight hyperpigmentation.
However, using tretinoin can also lead to skin irritation and skin dryness if you're not careful.
Unlike retinol, tretinoin is a prescription medication.
If you don’t have insurance or simply don’t want to deal with going in to see a dermatologist, I suggest checking out a reputable online pharmacy like UluRX.
They also do cool things a traditional derm can’t, like creating custom formulas for your specific needs.
What's the difference between retinol and adapalene?
Both retinol and adapalene bind to your retinoic acid receptors, but they don't work the same way.
Retinol undergoes two conversion steps to become retinoic acid which, when bound to your retinoic acid receptors, stimulates processes in your body to fight signs of aging.
On the other hand, adapalene binds directly to certain retinoic acid receptors and exhibits an anti-inflammatory effect to fight acne.
Both ingredients speed up skin cell turnover and can help with hyperpigmentation.
Benefits of Retinoids
Studies show that retinoids have skin benefits, but they don't always overlap among different derivatives. The most common benefits include:
Reduces clogged pores
Stimulates collagen production
Fights mild to severe acne
Reduces acne breakouts
Speeds up turnover of dead skin cells
Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Fights photoaging
While adapalene is great for combating acne, more studies need to be conducted to fully understand whether adapalene also has the same anti-aging properties as retinol and tretinoin.
In practice, I found that the results from using a retinol serum and adapalene gel were largely the same, though adapalene treated my acne better.
If I had to guess, I’d say that adapalene will likely be found one day to have similar, if not the same, anti-aging properties as retinol.
Side Effects of Using Retinoids
All retinoids have the potential to cause initial skin irritation, though your body typically gets used to it as you consistently use them in your routine.
This retinoid-induced irritation can present as side effects like:
redness
burning
stinging
flaking skin
and excessive dryness
For those with sensitive skin who cannot tolerate retinoids without developing skin irritation, alternative acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide may be more suitable options.
Anti-aging alternatives to retinoids can include vitamin C, peptides, and even bakuchiol.
Which one is better for acne?
Adapalene is better than retinol and retinaldehyde for treating acne.
It's FDA-approved for the treatment of acne, while retinol is not.
Tretinoin is also used to treat acne, but it comes with harsher side effects than both adapelene and retinol and must be prescribed by a dermatologist in the United States.
Which one is better for anti-aging?
There are far more studies on the usage of retinol and tretinoin for treating aging than adapalene.
So, if you're more concerned about fine lines and wrinkles than you are about acne, stick to retinol.
Getting overwhelmed? Don’t worry - I put together a complete, easy, quick skincare guide here:
How to Use Retinoids
To start, you should pick just one, keeping in mind that you’ll need a prescription for tretinoin if that’s the route you want to go.
Then, as part of your evening routine, follow these steps:
Wash your face with a gentle cleanser
Allow your skin to air dry or pat your face dry with a clean towel
Dispense about a pea-sized amount of retinoid onto your finger
Dot the pea all over your face, then gently rub it in until absorbed
Apply a hydrating serum and a thick moisturizer
Optionally, I also like apply a facial oil afterwards to seal in moisture
That's it - you're all set!
Just be aware that retinoids can cause photosensitivity, so stock up on some good sunscreen to finish of your morning routine.
Should you use adapalene and retinol together?
No, you should not use adapalene and retinol together.
Since both ingredients are vitamin A derivatives, they do much of the same work by binding to your retinoic acid receptors.
You don’t need to double up on retinoids; I suggest just picking one and sticking to it for at least a few months.
If you really want to use them both in your skincare routine, consider using them on alternate nights instead of layering them together.
Can everyone use retinol and adapalene?
No, not everyone can use retinoids.
In fact, dermatologists suggest that pregnant and nursing women should not use any retinoids, including Accutane, due to the potential for birth defects.
Further, people with sensitive skin and those under the age of 16 may be better off sticking to other acne treatments like salicylic acid cleansers, benzoyl peroxide treatments, or even mandelic acid products.
To learn more about mandelic acid, check out 10 Best Mandelic Acid Products.
The Bottom Line
While both retinol, retinal, adapalene, and tretinoin are vitamin A derivatives, they have many differences.
Retinol and retinaldehyde are better for treating signs of aging thanks to its ability to stimulate collagen production and thicken the dermis.
On the other hand, adapalene is better for treating acne thanks to its ability to gently exfoliate skin and reduce inflammatory breakouts.
Tretinoin is good for both acne and aging, but it’s also far strong (and more caustic!) than the others.
To use retinoids in your skincare routine, you should first determine whether retinol or adapalene is best suited for your specific skin concerns.
Then, go ahead and start using it in your evening routine 3-5 times per week and watch the magic happen!
Cheers,