Peptides: The Anti-Aging Secret Dermatologists Don’t Want You to Know
A straight‑talk guide to what peptides do and how to use them.
Let’s get this out of the way: I actually like dermatologists. A lot. I’ve been treated by them, I trust their judgment, and I recommend seeing one if you’re have a serious condition.
But, forgive me, everyone needs a headline that makes people click, and "Peptides: A Solid Addition to Your Skincare Routine" doesn’t really hit.
That said, peptides are worth talking about.
They’re one of those categories that used to live in the background of anti-aging skincare because they’re quiet, understated, and often misunderstood.
They’re not as dramatic as a prescription retinoid or as flashy as a new laser treatment, but they work.
Especially when used consistently and layered into a routine that already includes things like vitamin C, retinoids, and red light therapy.
In this article, I’ll break down what peptides actually are, what they do, the different types used in skincare, and how I personally use them.
Yes, we’ll get into copper peptides too, because the internet refuses to stop asking about them.
What Are Peptides, and What Do They Actually Do?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids.
If you want the technical explanation, they’re basically the building blocks of proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin.
In skincare, they’re used because they can signal to the skin to do something helpful.
That might mean producing more collagen, calming inflammation, or improving your skin barrier.
Not all peptides do the same thing. Some are messengers that tell your skin to regenerate.
Others help transport minerals. Some are there to hydrate and support your barrier.
Now, what they don’t do is work overnight or replace the fundamentals. Peptides aren’t a miracle.
They’re just a smart addition to a routine that’s already doing the heavy lifting.
Most of the benefit comes from consistent use.
They don’t remodel your face (I’m saying don’t fall for those exaggerated pics on Instagram), but they can help maintain firmness, fight signs of aging, and improve texture, as well as support the work that ingredients like tretinoin or vitamin C are already doing.
Peptides vs. Other Anti-Aging Ingredients
Peptides are great, but they’re not the foundation of an anti-aging routine.
That’s still going to be things like retinoids, antioxidants, and a consistent barrier-supporting routine.
Peptides are the bonus step. In my view, they’re supportive, not central. They work well when your skin is already doing a lot.
If you’re using tretinoin or exfoliating acids, peptides can help bring in hydration, calm your skin, and reduce irritation.
They’re also helpful when your barrier needs more support or when your skin’s just feeling tired from too many actives.
Unlike retinoids or vitamin C, most peptides don’t increase cell turnover or act as antioxidants.
They work differently. Many of them are signaling molecules.
That means they tell your skin what to do, instead of doing it directly.
The result can be firmer, smoother skin, but it won’t happen in a week, and it’s not necessarily going to replace a prescription retinoid.
They work synergistically with retinoids though, and I’m all for including both in your routine.
If you’re already using the basics, peptides make sense.
If you’re trying to use them instead of the basics, I think you might be disappointed (though everyone’s skin is different!)
Different Types of Peptides in Skincare
Not all peptides do the same thing.
Skincare marketing tends to treat them like a single category, but there are a few different types that show up in formulas.
Understanding what kind you’re using can help you figure out whether a product is actually doing something or just calling itself “peptide-powered” for the label.
Here are some of the biggest categories:
Signal peptides are the ones that get talked about the most. These help encourage collagen and elastin production by sending messages to your skin. A lot of anti-aging products use this category. Ingredients like Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) or palmitoyl tripeptide-1 fall into this group.
Carrier peptides help deliver trace minerals like copper to your skin, which can assist with repair and regeneration. The most well-known here is GHK-Cu, also known as copper peptides. We’ll get into those in more detail later since they deserve their own section.
Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides are sometimes referred to as “Botox in a bottle,” which is a stretch, but they’re still interesting. These peptides are meant to relax facial tension slightly by limiting the release of certain neurotransmitters. Argireline is probably the most famous example. The effects are subtle, and I wouldn’t expect miracles (sorry!)
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides help reduce the breakdown of collagen and other structural proteins in the skin. These aren’t as common, but they do show up in some formulas aimed at improving firmness or elasticity.
Important note: peptides also depend on how they’re formulated and delivered. A good formula makes a difference, and this is a good category to splurge on. Good brands I like include Mirror Skin and NIOD.
Okay, But What About Copper Peptides?
Copper peptides have been having a moment online.
If you spend any time in skincare forums or on TikTok, you’ve probably seen people talking about how they’re “the next retinol” or the “future of anti-aging.”
I’ve written about them before, and I still stand by what I said: they’re not a scam, but they’re also not magic.
They’re just exactly what they say they are: copper peptides.
GHK-Cu, the copper peptide used in most skincare products, has been studied for wound healing, skin regeneration, and even hair growth.
It shows promise.
But most of those studies were done in very specific contexts, and often in situations where the skin was already compromised.
Translating that to your daily skincare routine is a little more complicated.
I personally like copper peptides and use them in my own routine.
They can help with skin firmness, texture, and overall barrier health.
They also require patience though.
You’re not going to wake up in two weeks with new collagen. This is more of a long game.
Most people react well to copper peptides, and I’m a fan. I also like other peptides though!
So are they worth it?
If you’re already consistent with the basics and you’re curious, sure.
If you’re expecting a dramatic transformation, maybe not, but you can try for yourself and see.
My Favorite Peptide Products
I’ve tried a lot of peptide products, and most of them are fine. A few are great. These are the ones I actually use, recommend, and rebuy.
Medik8 Liquid Peptides: This one is a staple in my routine, especially in the winter. It’s lightweight but deeply hydrating, and my skin genuinely looks better when I use it consistently. It layers well, doesn’t pill, and plays nicely with tret. I hate running out of it, which tells you everything you need to know.
Mirror Skin Copper Elixir: If you’re curious about copper peptides, this is the one I reach for. It’s well-formulated, gentle, and packs a strong punch.
I love this one, it really does make your skin glow, especially when I combine it with a session with my red light therapy mask in the mornings.
Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer - Budget-friendly, well-formulated, and great for layering. It’s a nice option if you want to support your skin barrier and ease into peptides without spending a fortune. Also easy to travel with and doesn’t overwhelm your routine.
Image from naturium.com
I really do love these formulas, and I have for years. They’re consistent, thoughtfully formulated, and actually feel good on the skin. That matters more to me than what’s trending.
So, Should You Use Peptides?
If your routine is already built around solid ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, and moisturizers that actually support your barrier, peptides are worth considering.
They’re not going to change your skin overnight, but they can make a meaningful difference over time when used consistently.
I like peptides because they’re “low-drama”, in a sense.
They usually don’t cause irritation like retinoids and vitamin C, they work well with other products, and they help support the work your skin is already doing.
You don’t need them to build a good routine, but if your basics are already in place and you want to build on that, they make sense.
If you’re expecting Botox results from a peptide serum, you’re going to be let down.
But if you want something that improves hydration, firmness, and texture without making your skin freak out, peptides are worth your time.
Let me know in the comments: have you tried any peptide products? What’s your experience been like?
Cheers,