Exfoliation 101: Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliants and Their Benefits
On Choosing the Right Exfoliant for Radiant Skin.
Exfoliation is a crucial step in any skincare routine as it helps us remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and reveal smoother, brighter skin.
For example, if you’ve ever had stubborn skin texture, exfoliation might have been the right move!
However, with so many options available, choosing the right type of exfoliant can be overwhelming.
In this guide, I’ll break down the differences between chemical and physical exfoliants, their benefits, and how to incorporate them into your routine for optimal results.
What Are Chemical Exfoliants?
Chemical exfoliants work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily sloughed off.
Unlike physical exfoliants, which rely on manual scrubbing, chemical exfoliants use active ingredients to dissolve and remove dead skin cells.
Types of Chemical Exfoliants
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): These water-soluble acids, derived from fruits and milk, work on your skin's surface.
Common AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid, which are excellent for addressing anti-aging and dark spots.
Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigment Corrector – Shop Here
True Botanicals AHA Peel – Shop Here
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids): Oil-soluble acids that penetrate deeper into the pores, making them ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Salicylic acid is the most well-known BHA and is excellent for treating acne on your skin.
FaceTheory 2% BHA – Shop Here
The Inkey List Scalp Treatment (for a flaking scalp) – Shop Here
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids): Larger molecules than AHAs and BHAs, which makes them less irritating.
They work on your skin's surface and are suitable for sensitive skin.
Examples include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, both of which are beneficial for sensitive skin.
Medik8 Press and Glow Tonic – Shop Here
Neostrata PHA Cleanser – Shop Here
Benefits of Chemical Exfoliants
Chemical exfoliants offer numerous benefits, making them suitable for various skin types and concerns. Understandably, whichever one you choose will depend on your specific needs.
For Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
Chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid can penetrate deep into your pores, removing excess oil and dead skin cells that can lead to breakouts.
Regular use can help keep pores clear and reduce the frequency of acne flare-ups.
For Dry and Mature Skin
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid help remove dead skin cells from the surface, promoting smoother and more hydrated skin.
These acids also stimulate collagen production, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
My advice: Start with a low concentration of chemical exfoliants and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Look for products that combine AHAs and BHAs for a balanced approach. Murad’s AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser and MaeLove’s AHA BHA Serum are great options to consider.Popular Chemical Exfoliants in Skincare
AHAs: Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is the smallest AHA molecule, allowing it to penetrate the skin deeply.
It effectively removes dead skin cells, brightens our complexions, and improves skin texture.
Lactic Acid: Derived from milk, lactic acid is a gentler AHA than glycolic acid, suitable for sensitive skin.
It exfoliates your skin surface while providing hydration. It’s a good middle-ground between glycolic acid and mandelic acid, and I especially like it for people with stubborn skin texture.
Mandelic Acid: Derived from almonds, mandelic is probably my favorite AHA for its gentle exfoliation properties.
Even better, it helps fight fungus (think dandruff) and can help with acne due its semi-lipophilic characteristics.
It acts somewhat like a BHA in that sense.
BHAs: Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a BHA derived from willow bark.
It penetrates deep into the pores, dissolving excess oil and dead skin cells.
This makes it particularly effective for treating acne and blackheads.
PHAs: Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid
PHAs are gentler than AHAs and BHAs, making them suitable for sensitive skin.
They work on your skin's surface to exfoliate without causing irritation.
Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are common PHAs that also provide hydration and antioxidant benefits.
Full disclosure: some people might try PHAs and not really experience that many benefits. If you’re new to skincare and know you have reactive skin, PHAs might be suitable for you, but otherwise, I recommend checking out a lactic or mandelic acid product.
My advice: Incorporate these chemical exfoliants into your routine based on your skin type and concerns. Start with a low concentration and gradually increase as your skin adjusts.What Are Physical Exfoliants?
Physical exfoliants use manual scrubbing to remove dead skin cells from the surface.
These exfoliants can be in the form of scrubs, brushes, or cloths.
Types of Physical Exfoliants
Scrubs: Contain small, gritty particles like sugar, salt, or microbeads that physically slough off dead skin cells.
Brushes: Manual or electronic brushes that exfoliate the skin with bristles.
Cloths: Specially designed cloths, pads, or gloves with a textured surface that exfoliates when rubbed against your skin.
Benefits of Physical Exfoliants
Physical exfoliants can provide instant results by removing dead skin cells and revealing smoother skin.
They are particularly effective for certain areas of the body, like the elbows, knees, and feet.
For All Skin Types
When used correctly, physical exfoliants can benefit all skin types. They help to smooth rough patches and improve the overall texture of your skin.
Immediate Results
Physical exfoliants provide immediate gratification by visibly removing dead skin cells. This instant smoothness and radiance make them popular for pre-event skin prep.
My advice: Avoid using physical exfoliants on your face as much as possible. Choose physical exfoliants with gentle, rounded particles to avoid micro-tears in the skin. Avoid over-exfoliating, which can lead to irritation and damage. Nerra's Exfoliating Body Glove Set and First Aid Beauty KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub are excellent options for physical exfoliation.Popular Physical Exfoliants in Skincare
Scrubs: Sugar, Salt, and Microbead Scrubs
Sugar Scrubs: Sugar is a gentle exfoliant that dissolves in water, reducing the risk of over-exfoliation. It’s suitable for sensitive skin and provides a mild exfoliation.
Salt Scrubs: Coarse salt scrubs offer a more vigorous exfoliation and are ideal for rougher areas of the body.
Microbead Scrubs: Made of synthetic or natural beads, these scrubs provide a uniform exfoliation. However, you’ll likely want to avoid plastic microbeads as they are harmful to the environment.
Tools: Brushes, Sponges, and Exfoliating Cloths
Brushes: Facial and body brushes come in various bristle types and can provide thorough exfoliation. They are great for achieving a deep clean but should be used gently.
Sponges: Exfoliating sponges, like konjac sponges, offer a gentle exfoliation suitable for daily use.
Exfoliating Cloths and Gloves: These cloths and gloves have a textured surface that physically removes dead skin cells when rubbed against your skin. They are convenient and effective for quick exfoliation.
My advice: Use physical exfoliants once or twice a week, depending on your skin type and sensitivity. I like to use them before shaving. Avoid using them on broken or irritated skin. And in my opinon, there's never a reason to use physical exfoliants on your face unless you realllllly want to.Combining Chemical and Physical Exfoliation
Combining both types of exfoliants can provide comprehensive benefits, but it’s important to do so safely.
How to Safely Combine Both Types
To safely combine chemical and physical exfoliation, alternate between them rather than using them simultaneously.
For example, use a chemical exfoliant on one day and a physical exfoliant later in the week.
This approach prevents over-exfoliation and allows your skin time to recover.
Tips on Frequency and Routine Integration
Start with a gentle chemical exfoliant and gradually introduce physical exfoliation into your routine.
Pay attention to your skin’s response and adjust the frequency accordingly.
For most skin types, exfoliating 2-3 times a week is sufficient.
If you’re using other actives, like retinol and vitamin C, you’ll want to exfoliate less often.
My advice: Find a balance that works for your skin. Use chemical exfoliants for deeper, more targeted exfoliation, and physical exfoliants for immediate smoothness. Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigment Corrector and Murad Deep Relief Acne Treatment can be incorporated into a balanced routine.Product Recommendations
Here are some top exfoliant products tailored to different skin types:
For Oily/Acne-Prone Skin:
Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant: A salicylic acid serum that penetrates deep into the pores to clear acne and blackheads.
Neostrata Glycolic Renewal Serum: A glycolic acid toner that exfoliates the skin surface and reduces oiliness.
For Dry/Sensitive Skin:
Sunday Riley Good Genes: A lactic acid treatment that gently exfoliates while providing hydration. Super creamy texture. I like using this in place of tretinoin about once or twice a week.
Medik8 Press & Glow: A PHA-based toner that offers mild exfoliation without irritation. For what it’s worth, I’m not the biggest fan of PHAs, and I generally opt for azelaic acid or mandelic acid instead.
My advice: Choose products based on your skin type and concerns. Start with lower concentrations and frequencies to see how your skin reacts before increasing.How to Incorporate Exfoliation into Your Routine
Incorporating exfoliation into your skincare routine can maximize its benefits while minimizing the risk of irritation.
Step-by-Step Guide
Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove impurities.
Exfoliate: Apply your chosen chemical or physical exfoliant.
Hydrate (optional): Use a hydrating product to prevent barrier disruption
Serum: Apply a serum that addresses your specific skin concerns.
Moisturize: Follow with a moisturizer to lock in hydration.
Sunscreen (AM only): If desired, finish your morning routine with sunscreen.
Tips on Avoiding Over-Exfoliation
Frequency: Limit exfoliation to 2-3 times a week to avoid irritation. You can use BHAs for acne more frequently than AHAs for anti-aging as they tend to be less irritating.
Observation: Monitor your skin’s response and adjust the frequency if needed.
Hydration: Ensure you’re using hydrating products to support your skin barrier. I love this barrier repair serum from Cocokind.
Potential Side Effects and Precautions
While exfoliation can significantly improve your skin's texture and appearance, it's important to be aware of potential side effects and take precautions to avoid damage.
Possible Side Effects
Irritation and Redness: Over-exfoliation or using too strong an exfoliant can cause irritation and redness, especially for sensitive skin types.
Dryness and Peeling: Excessive exfoliation can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness and peeling.
Breakouts: Over-exfoliating can disrupt the skin barrier, making it more susceptible to breakouts and other skin issues.
Precautions
Patch Test: Always perform a patch test when trying a new exfoliant to ensure it doesn’t cause adverse reactions.
Start Slow: Begin with a low concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance.
Avoid Overlapping Actives: Be cautious when combining exfoliants with other active ingredients like retinoids or strong acids to prevent irritation.
Hydration is Key: Follow exfoliation with a hydrating serum and moisturizer to replenish moisture and support the skin barrier.
Sun Protection: Exfoliation can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Consider applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, seeking shade as necessary, or wearing protective clothing.
My advice: Listen to your skin. If you notice signs of irritation or sensitivity, scale back on exfoliation and focus on soothing and hydrating products until your skin recovers.Conclusion
Choosing the right exfoliant can be the ultimate key for your skincare routine.
By understanding the differences between chemical and physical exfoliants, and how to incorporate them effectively, you can achieve smoother, brighter, and healthier skin.
So, recapping the key points:
Chemical Exfoliants: Work by dissolving dead skin cells and are suitable for deeper exfoliation.
Physical Exfoliants: Use manual scrubbing to remove dead skin cells and provide immediate results.
Combining Both: Alternating between chemical and physical exfoliants can offer comprehensive benefits without over-exfoliating.
Experiment with different products and routines to find what works best for your skin type and concerns.
Remember, exfoliation is just one part of a balanced skincare regimen.
Consistency, patience, and mindful product selection are essential for achieving and maintaining healthy, glowing skin.
Cheers,