Do You Really Need a Moisturizer?
On Humectants, Emollients, Occlusives, and Anti-Aging.
Moisturization is the unsung hero of any effective skincare routine.
It’s easy to get lost in the allure of flashy new serums and treatments, but at the core of healthy skin lies consistent and effective hydration.
In the early days of learning skincare (oh goodness, I feel ancient . . .), I was constantly chasing the latest trends, hoping for a miracle fix.
It wasn’t until I started reading research and understanding the chemistry behind skincare ingredients that I realized the true power of moisturizers.
They aren’t just about making your skin feel nice; they are crucial in maintaining our skin barrier, preventing water loss, and delivering key ingredients that improve skin health.
In this article, we’ll explore the science behind the three main types of moisturizing ingredients: humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
By understanding how these ingredients work and how to combine them, you’ll be better equipped to keep your skin hydrated, healthy, and radiant.
Whether you're dealing with dryness, oiliness, or sensitivity, I promise there’s a perfect moisturizing strategy for you.
What Are Humectants?
Humectants are ingredients that attract water from the environment and the deeper layers of your skin, bringing moisture to the surface.
They are incredibly effective for hydrating your skin, especially if it tends to get dehydrated.
How Humectants Work
Humectants work like little moisture magnets.
They draw water molecules from the air and deeper layers of your skin, pulling them to the surface.
This helps keep your skin hydrated and plump.
Common humectants include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and urea.
Hyaluronic acid, for example, can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a powerhouse ingredient for hydration.
Benefits of Humectants for Different Skin Types
Humectants are especially beneficial for oily and dehydrated skin types.
They provide hydration without adding oil, making them perfect for keeping skin balanced.
When I started using hyaluronic acid, I noticed my skin felt instantly more hydrated and plump, without any greasy residue.
My advice: Look for products with humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Apply these to damp skin to maximize their hydrating effects. Medik8 Liquid Peptides and Naturium’s Glow Getter Body Wash are great options to consider.What Are Emollients?
Emollients are ingredients that soften and smooth the skin by filling in the gaps between skin cells.
They improve your skin's texture and appearance, making it feel more supple.
How Emollients Work
Emollients work by filling in the tiny cracks in the skin's surface, smoothing and softening it.
They create a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss and keeps your skin feeling soft.
Common emollients include ceramides, fatty acids, and plant oils.
Ceramides, naturally found in your skin, play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing water loss.
Benefits of Emollients for Different Skin Types
Emollients are particularly beneficial for dry and rough skin.
They help to smooth out flaky, dry patches and leave the skin feeling soft and supple.
When my skin gets dry in the winter, I reach for a rich emollient to restore its smoothness.
My advice: Incorporate emollients into your routine, especially if you have dry skin. Look for products with ceramides and fatty acids (don’t worry, if your moisturizer is thicker than a watery serum, you’re all good). Naturium Marshmallow Root Barrier Balm and Versed Dew Point Moisturizer are excellent choices for adding emollients to your skincare regimen.What Are Occlusives?
Occlusives are ingredients that form a barrier on the skin's surface, locking in moisture and preventing water loss.
They are essential for keeping your skin hydrated, especially in harsh conditions.
How Occlusives Work
Occlusives create a physical barrier on the skin, which helps to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental factors.
This barrier prevents water from evaporating, keeping the skin hydrated.
Common occlusives include petrolatum, beeswax, and silicones.
Petrolatum, for instance, is a highly effective occlusive that can prevent up to 98% of water loss from the skin.
Benefits of Occlusives for Different Skin Types
Occlusives are particularly beneficial for very dry and sensitive skin.
They help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from harsh weather and environmental stressors.
I always turn to occlusives when my skin feels exceptionally dry or irritated.
My advice: Use occlusives as the final step in your skincare routine to lock in moisture. Products with petrolatum or beeswax, like CeraVe Healing Ointment and Prequel Skin Utility Ointment, are great for sealing in hydration. I also like Grace & Stella’s lip mask.Combining Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives
Combining these three types of moisturizing ingredients can enhance your skin's hydration and overall health.
Each type of ingredient plays a unique role in keeping your skin hydrated and protected.
Why Combining Ingredients Works
Using humectants, emollients, and occlusives together creates a synergistic effect.
Humectants draw in moisture, emollients smooth and soften the skin, and occlusives lock everything in.
This combination ensures that your skin stays hydrated and protected throughout the day.
Tips for Layering Products
To get the most out of these ingredients, apply them in the right order.
Start with humectants on damp skin, followed by emollients to smooth and soften, and finish with occlusives to lock in moisture.
This layering technique maximizes hydration and keeps your skin barrier strong.
My advice: Incorporate all three types of moisturizers into your routine as needed. You can apply a hydrating serum first (I recommend one with peptides for anti-aging; two birds, one stone), followed by an emollient-rich moisturizer, and finish with an occlusive balm. This method will keep your skin hydrated and healthy. That said, it’s definitely more comfortable during winter than summer.Choosing the Right Moisturizer for Your Skin Type
Finding the right moisturizer for your skin type can make all the difference.
Here’s how to identify your skin type and choose the best products for your needs.
Identifying Your Skin Type
Understanding your skin type is the first step in choosing the right moisturizer.
Whether you have oily, dry, combination, or sensitive skin, knowing your skin type will help you select the most effective products.
Oily Skin: Look for lightweight, gel-based moisturizers that contain humectants like hyaluronic acid. Versed Dew Point and Korres Gel Cream are excellent options.
Dry Skin: Opt for rich, emollient-based creams that include ingredients like ceramides and fatty acids. CeraVe Moisturizing Cream and Song Jung Barrier Cream will help keep your skin smooth and hydrated.
Combination Skin: Use a balanced moisturizer that provides hydration without being too heavy. Look for products that contain both humectants and emollients. YTTP’s Air Whip Moisture Cream is a great choice.
Sensitive Skin: Choose gentle, fragrance-free moisturizers that contain soothing ingredients like aloe vera and chamomile. Purito’s Recovery Cream is a gentle and effective option.
The Bottom Line
Understanding the different types of moisturizing ingredients can revolutionize your skincare routine.
By incorporating humectants, emollients, and occlusives, you can achieve hydrated, healthy skin.
Remember to start with humectants on damp skin, follow with emollients to smooth and soften, and finish with occlusives to lock in moisture.
Experiment with different products and routines to find what works best for you. Here’s to healthy, hydrated skin to close out 2024!
Cheers,
When I (male) was learning about skincare, was spending $75 on this banana moisturizer a month lmao. As I learned more from you and others thankfully found Cerave moisturizing cream is great and not an arm and a leg. Thanks boo 🙏